Dermatologists explain how anti-aging peptides work, plus six buys to try - The Globe and Mail

Nov 03, 2024

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Peptides are taking the spotlight as a go-to ingredient for firmer, plumper skin.

These short chains of amino acids are building blocks of proteins in our bodies, including collagen and elastin, explains Dr. Victoria Taraska, a dermatologist at the Derm Centre/Victoria Park Medispa in Winnipeg. Those two components contribute to the fibrous structure of the inner layers of the skin and result in a healthy, resilient and cushiony complexion.

With age our body’s natural ability to make such proteins slows down, which leads to fine lines, wrinkles, sagging and dryness. “Peptides are essential because they help maintain and repair the skin’s barrier, support hydration and most importantly, boost collagen and elastin production,” she says. They’re also well sized for the task compared with collagen, another popular skin-boosting ingredient. “Peptide molecules are small and better absorbed, so they can provide more benefit,” says Dr. Geeta Yadav, a Toronto-based dermatologist and founder of Facet Dermatology.

There are many different types of peptides, each with different benefits. “In skin care, they are synthesized in labs to mimic those in the body,” says Taraska.

They can be categorized by the number of amino acids in the chain – and shorter is better when it comes to skin care. “Polypeptides contain longer chains of amino acids than dipeptides, which contain two amino acids,” explains Yadav. “Longer chains are less likely to be able to get to deeper layers of the skin.”

They can also be broken down by function. Matrixyl, which stimulates collagen production, is a popular type of signal peptide that you’ll see on labels. Carrier peptides, which include copper peptides, deliver trace elements to the skin. “They help with wound healing and elasticity,” says Taraska. Argireline is a neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptide known for wrinkle prevention. “It works by relaxing facial muscles, helping to reduce the depth of expression lines,” she says.

Both experts prefer peptides, considered essential for mature skin, in a serum formula for the face. “If you’re looking for significant results, serums are more concentrated and penetrate the skin deeper than creams,” Yadav says.

Unlike active ingredients, such as vitamin C, alpha-hydroxy acids or retinol, which can be potentially aggravating and should be added to a skin-care routine slowly, anyone can jump into using peptides. “They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, because they are generally non-irritating,” says Taraska.

Adopt a twice-daily application. “Peptides work gradually, so consistency is key,” she says. “You won’t see overnight results, but with regular use, you can expect smoother, firmer skin over time.”

Peptide-rich formulas can help address fine lines and more on the forehead, near the mouth or around the eyes. Add them as an extra step if aging skin is a concern.

This multi-tasking serum is made with dipeptide to tighten, hydrating hyaluronic acid and gently exfoliating polyhydroxy acid to brighten a dull and uneven skin tone.

Neostrata Tri-Therapy lifting serum, $140, Shoppers Drug Mart

Claiming to visibly reduce wrinkles after just one week of twice-daily use, this formula of peptides, quinoa seed extract and vitamin E helps to firm and lift all around the eyes.

Dermalogica Phyto Nature lifting eye cream, $163, dermalogica.ca

A trio of signal peptides in a fragrance- and gluten-free base helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles while strengthening the skin barrier.

My iN.gredients collagen + multipeptide serum, $13, Shoppers Drug Mart

This moisturizing serum with 2-per-cent argireline has been clinically tested, by the makers, and proven to reduce the appearance of nine types of expression wrinkles, including those near eyes and between eyebrows, by up to 68 per cent.

SkinCeuticals P-TIOX wrinkle-modulating peptide serum, $180, skinceuticals.ca

A lightweight gel serum with peptides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and marula oil leaves skin plumped and hydrated with a subtle dewy look.

Rhode peptide glazing fluid, $48, rhodeskin.com

Tri-peptide and vitamins (including B and C) help smooth fine lines, firm sagging skin and reduce under-eye puffiness.

Lancôme Rénergie H.C.F. triple serum eye, $120, lancome.ca